[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]We all know how a good suit should look and feel like, right? If you have followed our blog and social media channels regularly, you should be a true Ambassador of suits by now (a mini Barney Stinson so to speak).
You know what to look for in a suit, you know the details, the options, the do’s and don’ts, but – do you know how to tell if a suit is poorly made?
With a suit from Damanino you’ve probably never experienced the feeling of a bad suit. We don’t say this out of pride, but because we lay very much attention to detail in every suit we craft.
But, let’s just assume that you see a guy at work, or on your daily commute, and something just doesn’t “feel” right about the suit he’s wearing. You don’t want to stare, but you just know, there’s something “not right” about his suit, but you can’t really tell exactly what it is. Do you know that feeling? We experience it every day, sadly. It’s avoidable, and we wish more people would be a bit more careful, when purchasing a suit, no matter if its custom-made, or purchased off-the-rack.
A well fitted suit is sure to have you looking your very best, and why wear a suit at all, if not for looking good, right?
Let’s guide you through 5 signs of a poorly made suit, that you should have in mind, when purchasing a suit, or if you are out to spot one.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1498801850530{margin-top: 90px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]
1. Poorly fitting shoulders
[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3472″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]You may not have noticed, but one of the first looks of a tailor goes towards your shoulders. The shoulders are a critical point of a suit. They should lie flat and sit clean without any bulk, or misshape taking place.
The seam on top of the shoulder should be the same length as the bone below it, and should meet the sleeve of the suit right where your arm meets your shoulder.
The cheaper sort of suits often bulge along the shoulder area, which tells the tailor (and other fashion-forward Gents and Ladies) the most classic suit-mistake.
If the seam, connecting the sleeve to the jacket, is wrinkled up along your shoulder bone, or hanging down on your upper bicep, the jacket is never going to sit properly.
In these cases, you’ll see “ripple effects” that create lumps or wrinkles on the sleeve and the top of the jacket. You just don’t want that to happen.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1498802320969{margin-top: 90px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]
2. The suit comes with a size tag
[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3474″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]If you shop for a suit and it has a size tag, don’t. Just don’t. Stop what you’re doing and get out of there. There’s just no way that the off the rack suit will fit neatly to your body type, no matter how athletic and tall you are. Either you’ll have large portions of extra fabric, a too tight fit, or too little fabric to cover it all.
We’re all built differently so when suits are designed in very few sizes with little room to alter them, it is clear that they aren’t designed with the customer who values the fit of the suit in mind. Fact.
It’s all about the perfect fit. The fit of your suit is arguably the most important aspect of a good quality men’s suit. It’s also the aspect with the most impact on how your suit looks and feels on you. Ask yourself: “Why buy a suit, that doesn’t fit me perfectly?” After all, it’s not a cheap purchase, it’s costing you a good portion of your hard earned money!
Off-the-rack suits use a “standard sizing,” which is a sort of one-size-fits-all approach to suiting that uses only chest size and jacket length to determine the “ideal” fit.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1498802564957{margin-top: 90px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]
3. Cheap buttons – Plastic, not fantastic
[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3476″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]Do the buttons look cheap and painted? They probably are. Always trust your instinct on this one. These type of buttons are also very breakable. Buttons should be made of horn not plastic. Having said that, it’s not always easy to tell the difference. Some buttons are quite obviously plastic, but this is not always the case. You’ll get a feel for that, once you experienced real horn buttons.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1498802608853{margin-top: 90px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]
4. The lapel – stiff or soft
[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3478″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]The lapel is a very important point of the suit. It should have a soft, gradual, three-dimension roll that gives dimension and life to the jacket. A cheap one has a stiff crease caused by ironing a glued-back fabric.
This makes the entire lapel area, as well as the front of the jacket, look as if it’s uncomfortably or ill-fittingly attached to the wearer. A good roll however, makes the jacket look fitted to the man and creates a bit of slightly raised dimension, providing the jacket with subtle depth. When you’re trying on a suit, be sure to check the roll. A thumb should be able to find some room as you slide it under the lapel, moving down from shoulder to button.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1498802648167{margin-top: 90px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]
5. The Seat and Trouser break
[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3479″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]The back of your trousers should form a smooth drape over your rear end. A good fit in the seat will lie loosely against the underwear, without pulling tight against your bottom, or draping loosely down your thighs. You can spot a bad fit in the seat when there are horizontal wrinkles just under the buttocks (caused by too tight of a fit), or by loose, U-shaped sags on the backs of the thighs (caused by too loose of a fit).
The trouser “break” is the small wrinkle caused when the top of your shoe stops your trouser cuff from falling to its full length. One horizontal dimple or crease is usually ideal. The cuff should indeed rest on the top of your shoe — there needs to be contact — but it shouldn’t do much more than that.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1498802695371{margin-top: 90px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]
Conclusion
[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]When you are shopping for a suit next time, or out spotting other Gents at work, or on the commute to work, you will now have a better idea of what to look for. These are among some of the points to look for, to ensure that you are getting the highest quality suit for your money.
You can do your suit shopping directly on www.damanino.com, if you want to be sure of ending up with a perfect fit that stands the test of time, no matter the event, or occasion. Our suits undergo a very strict quality control before being sent to customers. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]